Thanks for getting back to me! that sounds good we will try light and fast for those routes. would you be able to recommend any routes in either Kara su or ak su that are particularly good without a portaledge preferably in the low to mid grade level? I am struggling to find detailed information about the routes in the area so if you know of any good guides that would be greatly appreciated thank you!

tom

Hi Tom,
Sure, we climbed Diagonal and Rocket Donkey without a portaledge in one day. In both routes you probably can find some uncomfortable ledges to sleep, but I would recommend to climb them light and fast in one day, since they are not that long.
On Odessa westface there is no ledge for sleeping. We encountered only two ledges in the whole route where we could sit on. If you dont have a portaledge you could try to climb the north ridge in one day and sleep on the summit, this is also probably the easiest route on Odessa from the KaraSu valley.
Patrick

thanks a lot for posting this info! I am part of a trip to the area this August and was hoping to ask you a few questions about the climbing logistics if that is okay. The main information I am looking for is to find out which routes are possible without a portaledge? I know that Perestroika Cracks has a ledge which people can sleep on. do you know if Diagonal or Rocket Donkey are possible without a ledge? Is anything on Odessa good without a portaledge?
Thanks in advance for any info!
Tom Bennell